Diane Gaudynski - A New Tradition In Quilting

Did you survive the holidays? Ready to hunker down and get some quilting done now before spring quilt shows? If you've never entered something in a show, this is the year to try. It will certainly be exciting and definitely improve your work. Having that goal of entering it in shows definitely keeps you on your toes!

When you are quilting it is not necessary at all times to stay on the line of a marked design. In fact, many times I alter the design either on purpose or accidentally as I quilt it. Don't worry if the feathers on the left of the vase aren't exactly like the ones on the other side. That's what makes quilting designs unique and unusual - they shouldn't look like they were spit from computers. My feathers when I quilt them may be way different from the marked line, but if they look graceful and lovely, that's great. Even better than the marked ones. Grids, diagonal lines, etc. must be "on the line" or the final result will be very new age. Think of the marked line as a guide only. It is much easier to quilt that way, rather than trying to keep the needle and every single stitch right on that line. The line will be removed leaving the feather just where you wanted it and smooth and nice.

After the quilting is done, many times before binding it is helpful to draw or ease in the top and bottom edges of your quilt as these are the ends that will stretch a bit due to the cross-grain of the backing fabric.Compare their measurements with the sides and if they are larger, you may need to take this step. Take short lines (4 - 5") of basting stitches at the very edge and just draw them in a bit until the correct measurement is reached--don't gather or ruffle them! It really helps stabilize the edges for binding. This is the one time I recommend a thread like Dual Duty or poly, as it won't break. Sometimes it's only an inch, but it makes a big difference.

If your machine sits down in a cabinet/table with a plexiglas surround, get it positioned correctly with the surround in. Then remove the surround and use a pigma pen to draw "corners" on the base of the cabinet around the corners of the machine. Then every time it is lifted or removed from the cabinet, you can easily place it exactly where it needs to go for the surround to slide in perfectly.

If the tension goes whacko suddenly, it could be because the thread is twisted around the needle. Take it out and re-thread. If the presser foot is up and you pull the thread, it should come through very freely. The tension is applied when the foot is down. If it feels very tight with the foot up, something isn't threaded correctly, and a twisted thread around the eye of the needle just may be the culprit. It can cause the thread to break or the needle to break while you are sewing/quilting. Sometimes the thread can get caught on a burr on the spool itself, or even that little notch where you secure the thread end. Always check the thread pathway before stepping on the gas. You will save hours of frustration and many broken needles.

The Hera marker works wonderfully to help make nice sharp creases in your computer-made greeting cards. It really mashes down heavy card stock or photo paper into a nice crease, and doesn't seem to harm the paper.

Stippling is addictive. However, try some new backgrounds! I discovered three favorites this year and now use stippling only when it is functionally the best choice. I think we are tired of acres of stippling on quilts.

I store my quilts in my walk-in closet (door always open for air circulation) on the upper shelves and take them down every now and then and re-fold them. Cover with an old sheet or even fabric, wrong side out, to keep the dust off. Plastic will discolor fabric, and cause all kinds of problems. Line your shelves with muslin too and wash every now and then so mildew doesn't grow. Use hot water and 1 c. white vinegar in the wash water. Of course, I have pre-washed my fabrics in hot soapy water so I know I can safely launder the quilt this way. If you are unsure, use cool or tepid water and be very careful.

I know many tell you to play music while you quilt, but it blocks out critical sewing machine noises. As you get experienced in machine quilting, the slightest noise differences from "usual" will alert you to something wrong, a dull needle, a burr, a machine that needs oiling, thread that is sticking somewhere, etc. I do play music but softly so I can still listen to the "music" of my machine. I like soft jazz the best as it relaxes me and is conducive to constructive daydreaming. If my classes in machine quilting cease to fill, I can go on the road doing sewing machine impressions - all their sounds, from my treadle, the first Singer in 1969, and my various Berninas. Not to mention all the sounds of the machines I use in classes.

Can't keep up with all the beautiful new fabric in the shops and catalogs and internet?? Use some for backing--splurge! The large scale prints like toile work especially well. Watch our for cheapie fabrics that have dyes that make it difficult to move the quilt. I always use good quality quilt fabric for backings, but not the highest thread count, like the batiks, etc. If you see fabric you love and might want for a backing, get a neutral color like khaki or caramel. Even beige is good.

Sometimes you are doing everything right in machine stippling but the foot you use is holding you back. There are some machines/feet I absolutely cannot get good results with, so this may be your problem. Experiment! See what is available for your machine. Try stippling on your friend's machine and see if the difference helps. I have found that the #24 foot for my Bernina 200 is fabulous, made a world of difference from the #9. And of course I raise the foot with the dial on the side of the machine to accomodate thicker batts or trapunto.

Natural unscented nothing added clay cat litter is great for slippery sidewalks, non-toxic, inexpensive, and bio-degradable. Won't kill the grass or stain your shoes.

Try my recipe for spray starch for all your pressing/piecing needs. Produces a super flat stable quilt: Dissolve a half or one teaspoon of regular Argo cornstarch (in your cupboard probably) in a few tablespoons of cold water in a 2-cup Pyrex measuring cup/pitcher. Boil 1 cup of water and stir into the cornstarch, stirring constantly. Add enough cool water to make 2 cups total of the mixture. It will thicken slightly and turn from chalk white to translucent. Let cool and use in a pump spray bottle. Shake it every time you spray. You may have to dilute it a little if it is too thick. Lasts a week or so, as there are no preservatives, no chemicals, no nothing that harms us or the environment, and it’s practically free, except for the spray bottle!

If you get build-up of starch on your iron, wipe it off (when iron is cool) with a rough terry towel soaked in white vinegar. It will come clean beautifully! I use a length of muslin to cover my ironing board and wash it frequently. One student suggested putting the starch in an old pump hairspray bottle for a fine mist. I like the sprayers from the beauty section - very fine mist.

Do not just practice, practice, practice! I never recommend it, it is too boring and non-productive and you may just be practicing the wrong thing over and over. Make quilts! Surely you can piece up a "learner" quilt top, lap size, to learn to improve your machine quilting. If you use all the components like cotton or wool batt and wash when done, your quilt will forgive your beginner mistakes and look wonderful. If it has setting squares where you can quilt the same design many times, by the end of the quilt you will be very good at not only that design, but all designs you choose for your next projects. I never practiced, I made quilts, and they will show you my progress from beginner to where I am today.

Look ahead of the needle much of the time when doing free-motion quilting, especially straight lines.

Varying your speed in machine quilting is the absolute key to keeping things on line, double stitching accurate, no knots on the back, etc. Learn to use the foot control as an extension of your thinking. Treat it like the gas pedal in your car - it's used the same way. Do not try to get one speed and stay there. There aren't many freeways in machine quilting with the exception of stippling and meandering. There you want to run at a fast even speed.

Try adding some of your own ideas to quilts in the quilting designs--trace your children's hands, write the year you made the quilt, sketch and quilt a picture (simple!) of your house. Every thing the quilters did 100 years + ago is still valid and makes for our own folk art.

Many of you who have machines with knee lifts are told to use your left foot on the foot control even if you are right-handed. I have found that I quilt 100% better if I use my right foot. It's like asking you to write with your left hand if you are right-handed. Try it!

If your free-motion straight lines, such as in grids, are waving and not straight, many times it isn't that you can't stitch a straight line free motion, it's due to the weight and drag of the quilt. Here again, it's best if you have your machine bed level with the surrounding table so there isn't nearly as much pull on it. Straight lines are possible and can be straight! Another option is to mark a straight line but as you quilt, "wave" gently to the left and right of the marks. It is a beautiful option and is so much easier to do than lines and creates subtle interest. It might be more appropriate too for the style of your quilt or fabric.

Keep quilting! Your work gets better every day. Best wishes for 2005!

Above is a detail of the corner quilting in "A Visit to Wales," a whole cloth miniature quilt that measures 23" square. The clamshells in the urn are about 1/4" in size as are some of the feathers and the grid, and the stippling is smaller. I was so inspired by the whole cloth quilts of Great Britain, especially Wales, and this is my own "trip" to Wales. It is sateen fabric quilted with silk thread, Quilter's Dream cotton, no trapunto.

© 2005 Diane Gaudynski

	Did you survive the holidays? Ready to hunker down and get some quilting done now before spring quilt shows? If you've never entered something in a show, this is the year to try. It will certainly be exciting and definitely improve your work. Having that goal of entering it in shows definitely keeps you on your toes!
	When you are quilting it is not necessary at all times to stay on the line of a marked design. In fact, many times I alter the design either on purpose or accidentally as I quilt it. Don't worry if the feathers on the left of the vase aren't exactly like the ones on the other side. That's what makes quilting designs unique and unusual - they shouldn't look like they were spit from computers. My feathers when I quilt them may be way different from the marked line, but if they look graceful and lovely, that's great. Even better than the marked ones. Grids, diagonal lines, etc. must be "on the line" or the final result will be very new age. *Think of the marked line as a guide only.* It is much easier to quilt that way, rather than trying to keep the needle and every single stitch right on that line. The line will be removed leaving the feather just where you wanted it and smooth and nice.
	After the quilting is done, many times before binding it is helpful to draw or ease in the top and bottom edges of your quilt as these are the ends that will stretch a bit due to the cross-grain of the backing fabric.Compare their measurements with the sides and if they are larger, you may need to take this step. Take short lines (4 - 5") of basting stitches at the very edge and just draw them in a bit until the correct measurement is reached--don't gather or ruffle them! It really helps stabilize the edges for binding. This is the one time I recommend a thread like Dual Duty or poly, as it won't break. Sometimes it's only an inch, but it makes a big difference.
	If your machine sits down in a cabinet/table with a plexiglas surround, get it positioned correctly with the surround in. Then remove the surround and use a pigma pen to draw "corners" on the base of the cabinet around the corners of the machine. Then every time it is lifted or removed from the cabinet, you can easily place it exactly where it needs to go for the surround to slide in perfectly.
	If the tension goes whacko suddenly, it could be because the thread is twisted around the needle. Take it out and re-thread. If the presser foot is up and you pull the thread, it should come through very freely. The tension is applied when the foot is down. If it feels very tight with the foot up, something isn't threaded correctly, and a twisted thread around the eye of the needle just may be the culprit. It can cause the thread to break or the needle to break while you are sewing/quilting. Sometimes the thread can get caught on a burr on the spool itself, or even that little notch where you secure the thread end. Always check the thread pathway before stepping on the gas. You will save hours of frustration and many broken needles.
	The Hera marker works wonderfully to help make nice sharp creases in your computer-made greeting cards. It really mashes down heavy card stock or photo paper into a nice crease, and doesn't seem to harm the paper.
	Stippling is addictive. However, try some new backgrounds! I discovered three favorites this year and now use stippling only when it is functionally the best choice. I think we are tired of acres of stippling on quilts.
	I store my quilts in my walk-in closet (door always open for air circulation) on the upper shelves and take them down every now and then and re-fold them. Cover with an old sheet or even fabric, wrong side out, to keep the dust off. Plastic will discolor fabric, and cause all kinds of problems. Line your shelves with muslin too and wash every now and then so mildew doesn't grow. Use hot water and 1 c. white vinegar in the wash water. Of course, I have pre-washed my fabrics in hot soapy water so I know I can safely launder the quilt this way. If you are unsure, use cool or tepid water and be very careful.
	I know many tell you to play music while you quilt, but it blocks out critical sewing machine noises. As you get experienced in machine quilting, the slightest noise differences from "usual" will alert you to something wrong, a dull needle, a burr, a machine that needs oiling, thread that is sticking somewhere, etc. I do play music but softly so I can still listen to the "music" of my machine. I like soft jazz the best as it relaxes me and is conducive to constructive daydreaming. If my classes in machine quilting cease to fill, I can go on the road doing sewing machine impressions - all their sounds, from my treadle, the first Singer in 1969, and my various Berninas. Not to mention all the sounds of the machines I use in classes.
	Can't keep up with all the beautiful new fabric in the shops and catalogs and internet?? Use some for backing--splurge! The large scale prints like toile work especially well. Watch our for cheapie fabrics that have dyes that make it difficult to move the quilt. I always use good quality quilt fabric for backings, but not the highest thread count, like the batiks, etc. If you see fabric you love and might want for a backing, get a neutral color like khaki or caramel. Even beige is good.
	Sometimes you are doing everything right in machine stippling but the foot you use is holding you back. There are some machines/feet I absolutely cannot get good results with, so this may be your problem. Experiment! See what is available for your machine. Try stippling on your friend's machine and see if the difference helps. I have found that the #24 foot for my Bernina 200 is fabulous, made a world of difference from the #9. And of course I raise the foot with the dial on the side of the machine to accomodate thicker batts or trapunto.
	Natural unscented nothing added clay cat litter is great for slippery sidewalks, non-toxic, inexpensive, and bio-degradable. Won't kill the grass or stain your shoes.
	Try my recipe for spray starch for all your pressing/piecing needs. Produces a super flat stable quilt: Dissolve a half or one teaspoon of regular Argo cornstarch (in your cupboard probably) in a few tablespoons of cold water in a 2-cup Pyrex measuring cup/pitcher. Boil 1 cup of water and stir into the cornstarch, stirring constantly. Add enough cool water to make 2 cups total of the mixture. It will thicken slightly and turn from chalk white to translucent. Let cool and use in a pump spray bottle. Shake it every time you spray. You may have to dilute it a little if it is too thick. Lasts a week or so, as there are no preservatives, no chemicals, no nothing that harms us or the environment, and it’s practically free, except for the spray bottle!
	If you get build-up of starch on your iron, wipe it off (when iron is cool) with a rough terry towel soaked in white vinegar. It will come clean beautifully! I use a length of muslin to cover my ironing board and wash it frequently. One student suggested putting the starch in an old pump hairspray bottle for a fine mist. I like the sprayers from the beauty section - very fine mist.
	Do *not* just practice, practice, practice! I never recommend it, it is too boring and non-productive and you may just be practicing the wrong thing over and over. Make quilts! Surely you can piece up a "learner" quilt top, lap size, to learn to improve your machine quilting. If you use all the components like cotton or wool batt and wash when done, your quilt will forgive your beginner mistakes and look wonderful. If it has setting squares where you can quilt the same design many times, by the end of the quilt you will be very good at not only that design, but all designs you choose for your next projects. I never practiced, I made quilts, and they will show you my progress from beginner to where I am today.
	Look ahead of the needle much of the time when doing free-motion quilting, especially straight lines.
	*Varying your speed* in machine quilting is the absolute key to keeping things on line, double stitching accurate, no knots on the back, etc. Learn to use the foot control as an extension of your thinking. Treat it like the gas pedal in your car - it's used the same way. Do not try to get one speed and stay there. There aren't many freeways in machine quilting with the exception of stippling and meandering. There you want to run at a fast even speed.
	Try adding some of your own ideas to quilts in the quilting designs--trace your children's hands, write the year you made the quilt, sketch and quilt a picture (simple!) of your house. Every thing the quilters did 100 years + ago is still valid and makes for our own folk art.
	Many of you who have machines with knee lifts are told to use your left foot on the foot control even if you are right-handed. I have found that I quilt 100% better if I use my right foot. It's like asking you to write with your left hand if you are right-handed. Try it!
	If your free-motion straight lines, such as in grids, are waving and not straight, many times it isn't that you can't stitch a straight line free motion, it's due to the weight and drag of the quilt. Here again, it's best if you have your machine bed level with the surrounding table so there isn't nearly as much pull on it. Straight lines are possible and can be straight! Another option is to mark a straight line but as you quilt, "wave" gently to the left and right of the marks. It is a beautiful option and is so much easier to do than lines and creates subtle interest. It might be more appropriate too for the style of your quilt or fabric.
	*Keep quilting! Your work gets better every day. Best wishes for 2005!*